Saree Soirees - The long and the short of it!

Dear Aalayam!!

I am back! And this time with a story that is close to my heart! We are galvanized by the #100sareepact concept that is trending currently, and we are serendipitously looking forward to revisiting the well loved Saree, and to embrace it - the Aalayam way. 

Supriya in a black (her favorite color for a saree) Varnangall!

In this post, we are showcasing some stalwart women close to our heart, and the impact the good old saree has made on our lives over the generations....and as part of the Indian cultural milieu.

Supriya's mom and her aunt (chikamma) adorning gorgeous Kanjeevarams! Her inspiration for dressing up.

It is only natural that we weave the story around our moms/mom figures/grand moms, and their generational saree treasures and memories.

Because, who does not recollect digging into the clove scented wardrobes of our grandmothers to pick a treasured kanjeevaram for that random cousin's wedding, and comparing that kanjeevaram to the same one, worn years ago, as pictured in the old grainy black and white dog-eared album? Those are the memories our kids may not treasure. Sigh....

Supriya's parents' wedding cermony. Notice Supriya's mom wearing a gorgeous checked temple saree, that has made its reappearance in many a cousin's wedding! 

We want to revisit those poignant memories, and bring home the epistle on how today's generation embraces culture and its attire and their take on it. 

Supriya with her grandmother...(my grandma used to wear the most sublimely fragrant sarees....The fragrance lingers, long after my grandma is gone...)

So be blown away by the ballads surrounding the favored saree treasures, and the memories abound with touch, smell, color and cultural flavor!

A modern take on the saree, and on the accessories that speak with it!

Compare and contrast the sarees for everyday attire and sarees for special occasions, and marvel at how the form and function have changed over the years!

Supriya's mom - her epitome of saree perfection!

Get ready for a modern retelling of Sarees Stories!

Here's Deepa's take, and her saree inspirations!

In the past, I’ve talked about fashion as an expression of our individualism. I have also commented on fashion as an extension of our interest in culture and creativity and by that logic fashion is ultimately about who we are. I am a saree lover and have always been one. 

Deepa, in her gorgeous splendor!

My closet is full of exquisite silks and their worthy companions! These are bonafide souvenirs of landmark events - weddings, housewarming, anniversaries and such! My sarees bear a trove of sentiments! A South Indian girl's tout ensemble - a stamp of my cultural identity! I am also a fashion purist and a big believer of time tested classic styles. I do not fancy transient trends. 

Deepa and her mom!, both in spectacular kanjeevarams!

I am on a personal mission to collect sarees from all over India simply for the love of fine weaves, varied textures, striking hues and intricate motifs. Perhaps, my fondness for sarees is genetic. My mom, grand mom and aunts are all saree divas and wear their sarees with passion and panache. So, this is an inherited passion and my dear family lovingly enables my indulgence! My mom is my fun(nest) dress up partner. Color, pattern and accessory coordination- she is always in and I love her spirit! I started wearing sarees early. 

At 18, as a first year government medical college student I was mandated to. The saree was considered as the only attire worthy of the professionalism that it took to serve patients. Back then, I groaned at the prospect of waking up 30 minutes early to allow enough time for draping – I was a novice with no skills, you see and it was such a comfort to hide behind the lab coat! As with everything else, the love and the skill evolved and took a life of its own. 

Deepa, outside her home!

Now, living in the United States, I lament on the lack of opportunities to dress in my Indian finery and so the saree is mostly relegated to parties and festivities. But that hasn’t diminished my love or my drive and participating in the 100sareepact is yet another way to relive my saree love. I have talked about the saree as the greatest ode to India’s textile heritage on Aalayam previously (click here) and I thank Supriya for bringing a few of us together to share our collective admiration for the Great Indian Saree with all of you.

Deepa and her favorite dress up partner!

We also roped in our favorite diva (you've met her before here!) who has embraced the #100sareepact with so much energy and enthusiasm, it was only natural that we went spell bound by her infectious enthusiasm and shared her story!

Here's presenting Arthi Anand , and her saree inspirations.

The inviting comfort of the sari and mom's lap
The ready towel that her pallu morphs into for wet hands
The shade from rain and the sun it turns into
The dreams of yesterday and tomorrow woven seamlessly

I love the sari.

Arthi (L), and her mom (R)

It must be genetic as my mom loves them and her grand daughters do, too.

As a kid I loved to see my mom in a sari, which was daily. She would don crisp cottons from all over the country and I learnt some bit of geography there. I would help ma press her pleats just so.

A fun take on a crisp cotton!

In winter and on occasions the silks would come into display and here I learnt some economics. In the monsoon the synthetics would be worn a bit reluctantly but their sheer beauty was not lost on me.

My earliest recollection of me in a sari is when I was about 7 yrs old. If I was home alone, I would pick out her soft Garden yellow- white sari and try it on and attempt to fold and put it back. Amma never asked me what I had been up to.

Abound in pleasant paisley memories!

I could not wait to wear them once I was a teen and would wonder why my mother resisted and tried to get me into ghahras and paavdais. Now I know she wanted to cherish her child a bit more and not let her turn all woman, too soon.

Once I turned adult, I continued to wear saris to work ( not daily like my mom) but at least monthly once. But a few years ago, once I began work form home, it dwindled. Except during Navaratri and other festivals.

Arthi traverses down the memory lane!

At 38 years, the large family I have married into ensure a continuous flow of sarees. My mother post retirement has found ease in salwar kameezes and her sarees lie unused as well. My grandmothers have passed away and left some of their saris behind

Arthi, at her workplace! Rocking the elegance of a saree in the modern day world.

The Vishnu Sahasranamam sessions in the apartment got my mom to wear a sari weekly once at least. And for me, the 100sareepact came as a catalyst to get me to consider sarees on a more regular basis. My friend Monika coaxed me as she knew my love for sarees.

The sari is forgiving- whatever your body shape or size ( the blouse is another story now) When worn well, the regal elegance the six yards imparts the wearer cannot be matched by any other attire.

Arthi, in her various moods - all in the many many kinds of sarees she lovingly brings to life everyday!! Check out Arthis Facebook page for more of her Saree stories!

Thank you Arthi and Deepa, for so evocatively and gorgeously embracing the saree, in style and spirit!!! And thank you Amma, and Sheeli for being part of my saree escapades - You guys planted the seeds...

That was quite an exotic traverse down a richly textured memory lane was it not?

As you know, our adopted home is in the United States, and we are always looking for opportunities to showcase Aalayam and increase its' relevance in the modern day readers' sensibilities - here and across the world. So,this feature was our humble way to drive home the cultural awesomeness that we are part of - as Indians! Hope you enjoyed it.

Love,
Supriya

Weaves of India - Exploring the Sari landscape of India!

Today, we are going to explore the textile heritage of India through a showcase of gorgeous weaves from across the country. Most online articles trace the origins of our textile traditions back to the Indus Valley civilization. Textiles were extensively traded much like our spices back then and today our rich textiles are immensely favored by world- designers! 

I am a fashion purist! A big believer of time-tested classic styles, if you will. Transient trends such as the net saris and sequined petticoats do not cut it for me.  And therefore, I am on a personal fashion mission to collect saris from all over India simply for the love of varied textures, fine weaves, striking hues and intricate motifs.
I have only begun and it  has already been a  fascinating exercise! I believe the sari is the greatest ode to our fabulous textile heritage and perhaps the longest fashion trend known to man! It is a forceful ideogram of my cultural identity and a resilient symbol of our sundry textile industry. So, dear Aalayam readers, sit back and take delight as I whisk you away on an aesthetic journey to discover the fabric landscape of India.

ILKAL:

 The lesser known Ilkal sari which originated in the Bagalkot region of North Karnataka features the unique Tope Teni weaving and the Kasuti (hand) embroidery (via wiki).  The distinctive red/maroon border on these saris adds a tribal flair and  makes the ilkal refreshing in its modesty and rustic appeal. The Ikal sari holds a dear place in my heart as this was the first sari that my husband bought for me many moons ago and exemplifies the loving bond we share.  Over the years, I have added two more exquisite Ilkals to my stock, handpicked by my mother-in-law.  And for this cherished association, the Ilkal is highlighted first on this list!

KANJEEVARAM:

     What can I say! Some of you probably remember that I did an entire post on the kanjeevaram sari  and here is an excerpt  "The kanjeevaram sari is a piece of art and I have remained a diehard Kanjeevaram loyalist till date. Every South Indian girl holds the Kanchi pattu close to her heart. After all, it is a part of her bridal trousseau! And for me, the kanjeevaram sari has been de rigueur at every other celebration as well! My fondness for the sari is well known!"
On a recent trip to India, I crumbled (miserably) under pressure - the pressure of having to walk away from breath takingly beautiful kanchi saris. I had resolved to buy just one since I was intent on buying other saris from across the country. But my resolve melted the minute I stood in front of a beautiful row of neatly stacked  opulent kanchi saris and eventually I walked out of the store with 4 gorgeous kanchis, a happy camper! Ageless in quality and timeless in style, the kanjeevaram silk  reigns supreme

KERALA KASAVU:

I don't know of any other sari  that can match the enduring elegance of the Kerala Kasavu. No, really! The tranquil ivory tone complimented by the luxe gold border of the kasavu sari has been a cultural trademark of the gorgeous women of Kerala from times immemorial and holds its appeal even today. If you are a sari aficionado, then your bank would be incomplete without the Kasavu.

MYSORE SILK:

The art of draping a sari is as interesting as the diverse textile heritage itself. If there is one sari that allows for a perfect drape then it is the Mysore Silk. I love the way it makes me feel!  Emanating from the land of the Maharajahs, the Mysore silk is indeed aristocratic in its appearance. Known for its texture and luster, the resplendent Mysore silk is a seemly tribute to legendary Mysore.  As you get ready to display your Jambu Savari for this year's Golu, why not celebrate in a traditional Mysore silk sari ? Displayed in the picture is another personal favorite - a gift that is a token of my pregnancy and a reminder of many treasured emotions!

PATOLA:

  Patola is a splendid example of hand-woven artistry. The weaver implements a double ikkat weave to turn  the Patola sari into an impressive piece of art replete with geometric designs and intense hues. Did you happen to catch the stills from Lakme fashion week this year.Designer Gaurang Shah's repertoire was jaw droppingly gorgeous. He worked with Patan patola as his medium and chose to don his show stopper kirron kher (yes, the ultimate sari diva herself) in a stunning Navrathan Patola.
I love the handwoven texture on mine- I think it makes the sari exotic!

BATIK:

Another sari, another dyeing technique! The Javanese wax-resistant dyeing technique or the Batik dye adds splashes of color and a boho-chic vibe to the Indian six yards. This bold Batik in complimentary colors is from my 8o year old grandmother's closet which is now a precious addition to my sari collection. Fashion trends are cyclical and so the Batik is back! I can always upcycle my grandmother's conventional sari with an edgy accessory for an updated look!

POCHAMPALLY:

So, what is the connection between a global design trend and a tiny village in Andhra Pradesh, India? A dyeing and weaving style known as Ikat. The pochampally sari is fashioned in the Ikat style and could very well be the Patola's twin. However, regional influences separate the two. This too belongs to my grandmother. This was my way of bringing a part of her here to my home. I regret that I never brought her here to visit us. She is frail now and cannot make a trans-atlantic trip. The saris will always serve as a reminder of my grandmom's simple yet impeccable sense of style that I am grateful to have inherited. Her tenacious spirit belies her frail health much like the Pochampally itself whose vibrant colors and striking patterns mask the signs of wear.

ZARDOSI:

If you are looking for an avant garde fashion statement then the zardosi embroidery is it! Sported by most Indian runway models and bollywood heroines, elaborate zardosi embroidery gives the sari an opulent up-do! Zardosi=haute couture! Zardosi work involves embroidering with metallic threads to add a generous dose of sparkle and we love that in our wedding and festive finery, don't we?

KANTHA:

Out next stop on the textile tour is Bengal. The intricate Kantha embroidery, a hot favorite world over, is from Bengal. Fashion for me is about being true to who you are.  I believe in details and nothing beats the sophisticated detailing of the kantha embroidery. A silk Kantha is subtle and classy and adds a refined elegance no matter what the occasion. I can see myself wearing a Kantha sari to a western gala, a soiree, a banquet or a cocktail hour!

TUSSAR SILK: 

A weaver somewhere in Bihar/ West Bengal weaves his magic into a Tussar silk and breathes life into it.  The tussar silk is magical! Light weight and linen like, the sari is an easy drape! I love the versatile utility of these saris. This hot pink Tussar silk paired with a geometric border and a contrast pallu was my absolute favorite. Subsequently, a serendipitous shopping find in the form of this elaborate silver necklace  became the perfect accessory that this Tussar silk demands! With this gorgeous outfit, I am ready to paint the town pink, don't you think?

BLOCK PRINT:

We featured a little spotlight piece on the art of block printing in a previous post and here is an excerpt "There is nothing more simple and sophisticated than block print fabrics. An ancient textile imprinting technique, block printing is done by artisans in rural India and these handmade fabrics are perfect inspite of their imperfections!" The delicate beauty of the symmetric block prints makes the sari a visually appealing piece of art. My persimmon and black sari was a thoughtful gift from my dear aunt who knew of my sari -mission. The block prints on this beautiful cotton sari paired with a causal embroidered fabric bag creates an eye-catching ethnic extravaganza!

BENARES:

And I am going to wrap up this edition of weaves of India with what I fondly refer to as the princess of silks (remember, the kanjeevaram  has already won the title of the Queen!) The stunning brocade from Varanasi, the Benares sari, is an exquisite production. A collector's item, if you will. So much goes into weaving the delicate gold and silk threads together to create this silken tapestry of unmatched beauty.  On a religious tour last year, my mom picked up this beautiful plum Benares with white silk threadwork for me. Maybe, someday, I could even convert this into some kind of a wall art?

Did you know? Many of India's saris have a GI right (Geographical Indication)- an intellectual property right, mapping them to the region of origin (source:wiki)

It was a great pleasure to do this feature on a topic so close to my heart -India's unparalleled textile heritage! I would be remiss if I did not thank my mom, grandmom, mother-in-law and aunts for enabling my indulgence!

Sanganeri, bomkai, tanchoi, chanderi, paithini, venkatgiri….so much more to talk about!
Cheers!
Deepa

All images are the copyrighted property of Aalayam. Credits: My husband!

Spotlight on Kanjeevaram

Welcome to our feature on Kanjeevaram sarees!

2013. Feliz Ano Nuevo! 

Hope you enjoyed the holiday season as much as we did. Aalayam has an interesting line-up of posts for the New Year and we are excited to have you back!
And today, we will kick-off  of our 2013 series with a post from Incredible India. We are a few days away from Sankranthi, India's harvest festival and Supriya and I want to enable our readers to  transition from Christmas to Sankranthi smoothly. Let's talk attire, food and festivities!

 

India is known for its fabulous fabrics and undoubtedly, the finest of them all is the Kanjeevaram pattu (pure silk). I love Kanjeevaram saris! The sheen, the richness, the texture, the grandeur, the motifs and the luscious colors – really, what’s not to like about it? 

The slate grey kanchi saree makes a beautiful backdrop for the  scattered letters!

The kanjeevaram sari is a piece of art and I have remained a diehard Kanjeevaram loyalist till date. Every South Indian girl holds the Kanchi pattu close to her heart. After all, it is a part of her bridal trousseau! And for me, the kanjeevaram sari has been de rigueur at every other celebration as well! My fondness for the sari is well known!

A gorgeous aubergine kanchi pattu as I pay obeisance!

  Rightly so, the Kanjeevaram sari is referred to as the  “Queen of silks.” It’s timeless distinction makes it an attractive buy even in this day and age where the sartorial elegance of the sari has seen a paradigm shift thanks to the fashion industry. The kanchi pattu is unparalleled in traditional splendor with the gold zari borders and the exquisite brocaded pallus . A product of skilled craftsmanship, the kanjeevaram sari is a masterpiece of hand-woven heritage! And the silken grace the sari lends truly makes you feel like a queen!

Lustrous appeal of the kanjeevaram saree is to die for!

The fashion possibilities are endless too! I can ingeniously dress it up to suit the need of the hour. A piece of statement jewelry, a kundan accented blouse or a bejeweled potli/batua are easy ways to add to the ceremonial look.  Don’t you love how yesteryear divas like Rekha, Hema Malini and Kirron Kher (she deserves a post of her own) wear their kanchi saris with panache? These ladies have stayed loyal to the Kanjeevaram sari for years. It is a safe yet striking choice! 

Dress it up!

OR

Tone it down with metal bangles for folksy affability!

 There was an article in the Hindu a few months ago highlighting the issues surrounding the weaving industry in Kanchipuram. 

Here is an excerpt from the article on the Korvai weaving technique and the history of the saris

“A korvai sari’s border and pallu are the same color, he says. They are in bright contrast to the “body” which is in a single or a family (shades) of colors with tonal contrasts. Weavers use the ancient craft of three-shuttle weaving and interlocking weft to get this effect. The sari is ornamented with pure gold zari. The motifs are from temple sculptures — religion, architecture or nature-based. The Petni technique changes colors, extracted from leaves, barks and seeds. The sari weighs 500g to1kg, 2/3-ply threads help increase the weight. Weaving a “Kanjeevaram” is tedious but korvai stamps it with splendor and durability.

“These were being woven during the time of Pallava kings,” Panneerselvam says, touching the sari’s history. “Artisans from Tamil Nadu, Saurashtra and Karnataka, possibly invited by the king, congregated here to pursue their art.” The pattu-nool (thread) came from Karnataka, zari from Surat. Families wove together, as several hands were needed to wind the thread in the beam. Temples bought saris to drape goddesses, and kings for the boudoir. Temple tourists bought them as blessed memento. The saris later went to Madras, the wealthy trading centre close by. Production and marketing combined seamlessly.”

A fiery maroon! Art work by my friend Sahana.

  So, there you go… that explains the sense of aristocracy that the kanjeevaram sari brings with it. Next time you want to add some regal chic to your appearance effortlessly  - grab a kanjeevaram sari and let it work for you! And if you already own a pattu sari or two – pat yourself on the back for your chic sari fashion sense!

Aqua blue paired with a malli mottu (jasmine bud haaram) - wedding chic!

 

Hope you enjoyed this set of pictures and our feature on the kanjeevaram sari?

As you put away those holiday dresses and ponder over your atttire for Sankranthi - I hope you have your answer!

Cheers!

Deepa

 All images for this post were taken by my husband and as always, our images are copyrighted!