Weaves of India - Exploring the Sari landscape of India!

Today, we are going to explore the textile heritage of India through a showcase of gorgeous weaves from across the country. Most online articles trace the origins of our textile traditions back to the Indus Valley civilization. Textiles were extensively traded much like our spices back then and today our rich textiles are immensely favored by world- designers! 

I am a fashion purist! A big believer of time-tested classic styles, if you will. Transient trends such as the net saris and sequined petticoats do not cut it for me.  And therefore, I am on a personal fashion mission to collect saris from all over India simply for the love of varied textures, fine weaves, striking hues and intricate motifs.
I have only begun and it  has already been a  fascinating exercise! I believe the sari is the greatest ode to our fabulous textile heritage and perhaps the longest fashion trend known to man! It is a forceful ideogram of my cultural identity and a resilient symbol of our sundry textile industry. So, dear Aalayam readers, sit back and take delight as I whisk you away on an aesthetic journey to discover the fabric landscape of India.

ILKAL:

 The lesser known Ilkal sari which originated in the Bagalkot region of North Karnataka features the unique Tope Teni weaving and the Kasuti (hand) embroidery (via wiki).  The distinctive red/maroon border on these saris adds a tribal flair and  makes the ilkal refreshing in its modesty and rustic appeal. The Ikal sari holds a dear place in my heart as this was the first sari that my husband bought for me many moons ago and exemplifies the loving bond we share.  Over the years, I have added two more exquisite Ilkals to my stock, handpicked by my mother-in-law.  And for this cherished association, the Ilkal is highlighted first on this list!

KANJEEVARAM:

     What can I say! Some of you probably remember that I did an entire post on the kanjeevaram sari  and here is an excerpt  "The kanjeevaram sari is a piece of art and I have remained a diehard Kanjeevaram loyalist till date. Every South Indian girl holds the Kanchi pattu close to her heart. After all, it is a part of her bridal trousseau! And for me, the kanjeevaram sari has been de rigueur at every other celebration as well! My fondness for the sari is well known!"
On a recent trip to India, I crumbled (miserably) under pressure - the pressure of having to walk away from breath takingly beautiful kanchi saris. I had resolved to buy just one since I was intent on buying other saris from across the country. But my resolve melted the minute I stood in front of a beautiful row of neatly stacked  opulent kanchi saris and eventually I walked out of the store with 4 gorgeous kanchis, a happy camper! Ageless in quality and timeless in style, the kanjeevaram silk  reigns supreme

KERALA KASAVU:

I don't know of any other sari  that can match the enduring elegance of the Kerala Kasavu. No, really! The tranquil ivory tone complimented by the luxe gold border of the kasavu sari has been a cultural trademark of the gorgeous women of Kerala from times immemorial and holds its appeal even today. If you are a sari aficionado, then your bank would be incomplete without the Kasavu.

MYSORE SILK:

The art of draping a sari is as interesting as the diverse textile heritage itself. If there is one sari that allows for a perfect drape then it is the Mysore Silk. I love the way it makes me feel!  Emanating from the land of the Maharajahs, the Mysore silk is indeed aristocratic in its appearance. Known for its texture and luster, the resplendent Mysore silk is a seemly tribute to legendary Mysore.  As you get ready to display your Jambu Savari for this year's Golu, why not celebrate in a traditional Mysore silk sari ? Displayed in the picture is another personal favorite - a gift that is a token of my pregnancy and a reminder of many treasured emotions!

PATOLA:

  Patola is a splendid example of hand-woven artistry. The weaver implements a double ikkat weave to turn  the Patola sari into an impressive piece of art replete with geometric designs and intense hues. Did you happen to catch the stills from Lakme fashion week this year.Designer Gaurang Shah's repertoire was jaw droppingly gorgeous. He worked with Patan patola as his medium and chose to don his show stopper kirron kher (yes, the ultimate sari diva herself) in a stunning Navrathan Patola.
I love the handwoven texture on mine- I think it makes the sari exotic!

BATIK:

Another sari, another dyeing technique! The Javanese wax-resistant dyeing technique or the Batik dye adds splashes of color and a boho-chic vibe to the Indian six yards. This bold Batik in complimentary colors is from my 8o year old grandmother's closet which is now a precious addition to my sari collection. Fashion trends are cyclical and so the Batik is back! I can always upcycle my grandmother's conventional sari with an edgy accessory for an updated look!

POCHAMPALLY:

So, what is the connection between a global design trend and a tiny village in Andhra Pradesh, India? A dyeing and weaving style known as Ikat. The pochampally sari is fashioned in the Ikat style and could very well be the Patola's twin. However, regional influences separate the two. This too belongs to my grandmother. This was my way of bringing a part of her here to my home. I regret that I never brought her here to visit us. She is frail now and cannot make a trans-atlantic trip. The saris will always serve as a reminder of my grandmom's simple yet impeccable sense of style that I am grateful to have inherited. Her tenacious spirit belies her frail health much like the Pochampally itself whose vibrant colors and striking patterns mask the signs of wear.

ZARDOSI:

If you are looking for an avant garde fashion statement then the zardosi embroidery is it! Sported by most Indian runway models and bollywood heroines, elaborate zardosi embroidery gives the sari an opulent up-do! Zardosi=haute couture! Zardosi work involves embroidering with metallic threads to add a generous dose of sparkle and we love that in our wedding and festive finery, don't we?

KANTHA:

Out next stop on the textile tour is Bengal. The intricate Kantha embroidery, a hot favorite world over, is from Bengal. Fashion for me is about being true to who you are.  I believe in details and nothing beats the sophisticated detailing of the kantha embroidery. A silk Kantha is subtle and classy and adds a refined elegance no matter what the occasion. I can see myself wearing a Kantha sari to a western gala, a soiree, a banquet or a cocktail hour!

TUSSAR SILK: 

A weaver somewhere in Bihar/ West Bengal weaves his magic into a Tussar silk and breathes life into it.  The tussar silk is magical! Light weight and linen like, the sari is an easy drape! I love the versatile utility of these saris. This hot pink Tussar silk paired with a geometric border and a contrast pallu was my absolute favorite. Subsequently, a serendipitous shopping find in the form of this elaborate silver necklace  became the perfect accessory that this Tussar silk demands! With this gorgeous outfit, I am ready to paint the town pink, don't you think?

BLOCK PRINT:

We featured a little spotlight piece on the art of block printing in a previous post and here is an excerpt "There is nothing more simple and sophisticated than block print fabrics. An ancient textile imprinting technique, block printing is done by artisans in rural India and these handmade fabrics are perfect inspite of their imperfections!" The delicate beauty of the symmetric block prints makes the sari a visually appealing piece of art. My persimmon and black sari was a thoughtful gift from my dear aunt who knew of my sari -mission. The block prints on this beautiful cotton sari paired with a causal embroidered fabric bag creates an eye-catching ethnic extravaganza!

BENARES:

And I am going to wrap up this edition of weaves of India with what I fondly refer to as the princess of silks (remember, the kanjeevaram  has already won the title of the Queen!) The stunning brocade from Varanasi, the Benares sari, is an exquisite production. A collector's item, if you will. So much goes into weaving the delicate gold and silk threads together to create this silken tapestry of unmatched beauty.  On a religious tour last year, my mom picked up this beautiful plum Benares with white silk threadwork for me. Maybe, someday, I could even convert this into some kind of a wall art?

Did you know? Many of India's saris have a GI right (Geographical Indication)- an intellectual property right, mapping them to the region of origin (source:wiki)

It was a great pleasure to do this feature on a topic so close to my heart -India's unparalleled textile heritage! I would be remiss if I did not thank my mom, grandmom, mother-in-law and aunts for enabling my indulgence!

Sanganeri, bomkai, tanchoi, chanderi, paithini, venkatgiri….so much more to talk about!
Cheers!
Deepa

All images are the copyrighted property of Aalayam. Credits: My husband!